|Quebrada Ishinca Climbing to Nevado Urus | Ishinca | Tocllaraju | Ranrapalca
|Urus Este 5420m.
Southeast Slope to East Ridge (Normal Route)
Urus Este is one of several Ishinca Valley peaks that are perfect for acclimatization. An easy snow climb leads to the 5,420m summit if you leave early enough, you can be back in base camp for lunch.
Descent: by the same route.
Northwest Slopes (Normal Route)
Ishinca is a great climb for those who don’t have much mountaineering experience, or for those looking to get acclimatized before going on to bigger things. It is primarily a snow walk on glacier slopes until the final 100m, which steepens enough that you could fall if you’re not paying attention. The summit provides great views of Ranrapalca and Huantsan.
Descent: by same route, or right route.
Northwest Ridge (Normal Route)
Tocllaraju is one of the most beautiful mountains in the range. It is a challenging peak, yet not too difficult for a first 6,000m peak. Adventurous yet moderate ice climbing and an exposed ridge lead to a perfect summit. This classic four day mountaineering adventure is not to be missed.
Grade: D (due to the difficulties of the summit pyramid
Descent: by the same route. Two sites to rappels take you down the north ridge, below both bergschrunds.
West Face Direct.
Descent: the North West ridge.
The west face of Tocllaraju offers the rare opportunity to climb a beautifully smooth, high-angle ice face for over 300m, followed by steep snow up the final ridge to perfect summit. They don’t get much better.
Northeast face Normal Route
Descent: the route. Several rappels may be necessary to descend the upper face, using rock gear for anchors.
Resembling a giant fortress, Ranrapalca is climbed most easily via the northeast face. Along the route, you will traverse a glacier, negotiate crevasses and ascend moderately steep snow and ice, along with a little rock. The slog across the summit plateau will be rewarded with an exciting finish
Ranrapalca North Face
The north face of Ranrapalca looks a lot more difficult than it really is. It is a long face and provides lots of moderately steep snow and ice, capped by a short rock band. Descending the northeast face will complete a great tour of the mountain. Climb quickly, and you can do it in a long day.
Descent: the northeast slopes route (normal route)