Huascaran Norte 6664m
south slopes via the garganta (normal route) and via shield D+.
First ascent: Sept. 2, 1,908 by A. Peck, R. Taugwalder, G. zum Taugwald
Time: 5-7 days roundtrip from the village of Musho, depending upon acclimatization.
Although it is the second highest peak in Peru, only114m lower than Huascaran Sur, Huascaran Norte rarely gets climbed. While the snow on the south slopes of North, above the Garganta col, can be deep, unconsolidated and somewhat avalanche-prone, its normal route has fewer crevasse problems and is no more difficult than sur’s. The unobstructed view of the northern half of the Cordillera Blanca makes Norte’s summit a more impressive vantage point than Sur’s
Same as for Huascaran Sur’s Garganta route, until reaching camp 2. Cross the left west side of the col, heading toward the south slopes of Norte. After crossing the bergschrund, pick the easiest line up the south slopes to the summit ridge. Once on this crest, which runs north and south, follow the ridge to the large summit plateau.
Descent: by the same route, from the summit to camp 2, and retrace your steps back to Musho.
Huascaran Sur 6768m.
Northwest Slopes via the Garganta (Normal Route)
First Ascent: July 20, 1,932 (5 climbers)
Time: 5-7 days roundtrip from Musho, depending upon acclimatization.
At 22,205 feet, Huascaran Sur is the highest mountain in Peru. It is truly a big mountain, creating its own weather. The Garganta route provides a lot of glacier travel and big crevasses, along with unavoidable avalanche hazards. Get fit and acclimatized on other peaks, then attempt Huascaran, fast and light.
Campo base 4250m.
Campo 1- 5400m.-
Garganta or Campo 2 -5900m.
Huascaran Sur 6,768m.
The Shield (Escudo)
First Ascent: July 15, 1969, by W. Broda, J. Merler, B. Segger.
Time: 5-6 days roundtrip from Huaraz
The Shield is one of the nicest direct lines to the top of Huascaran Sur. In some ways, it is safer than the Garganta route. You only have to pass through the dangerous avalanche zones below the Garganta one time, and that is while your going down.
Escudo means” shield.”A portion of the west face of Huascaran Sur resembles an upside-down shield. In the afternoon, when the sun is shining directly on it, its blue ice glistens. The route generally climbs up the left edge of the face. Parties have climbed the right edge, as well as straight up the middle of the face. You would need calves of steel for this direct line.
Getting there: same as for Garganta route.
Descent: follow the track of the Garganta route down the northern slopes of Huascaran Sur to the Garganta. Once on the flat ground of this giant col, walk to the west end.
Happy end Musho Climbing Peru.