This spectacular valley has 400m granite walls and is ringed by steep, jagged peak rising to 6395m. From the Paron valley, you can climb Caraz 1 , Artesonraju, Piramide de Garcilaso, and Huandoy Norte. Postcards of this valley show the turquoise- colored Laguna Paron ( 4200m) and the striking piramide de Garcilaso 5,885m. Estandingabove the far end of the lake. Laguna Paron is one of the longest and most beautiful lakes in the Cordillera Blanca. If you don’t come to this valley to climb, the views are worth the drive.
Laguna Paron was dammed by the glacier flowing from Huandoy Norte. During an earthquake, this large lake could break its natural dam and flood the town of Caraz, as well as the electric plant in cañon de pato. In 1982. Government agency Ingemmet (Instituto Geologic Minero y Metalurgico) began to bore a tunnel to drain the lake by 40m. The outlet of the lake was subsequently dug up and rebuilt with a rock. And-cement dam.
7a/(5.11c- or 5.10c1-2).
Time: from 1 or 2 days on the wall.
>An important route in the evolution of rock climbing in the Peru Amazing Adventures; (Peruvian Andes) the first route 100% rock- excellent granite. It is a fantastic free climb (partially equipped) for all those keen on the big crags with altitude in addition.
The path starts left to the Electro- station 3/4h.
This granite monolith has quickly become the most popular rock to climb in the Cordillera B lanca. With at least 13 big wall routs to choose from on clean granite and in the sun most of the day you can’t go wrong. Have at lads!
EQUIPMENT: standard alpine free rack including: 2 sets of micro cams, 2sets of Camelot’s up to one #3, 1 set of stoppers, 1 set of micro stoppers, 7 quick draws, 5 runners, 2 double length runners, 10 extra carabineers, 1 cordelette, two 70m ropes, helmet and water.
Caraz 1 6,025m.
Time : 11-13 hours from bottom of the face, in good conditions.
Caraz 1 is not a well-known peak. the neighboring peak of Artesonraju and Piramide get all the attention. However, the south face of Caraz 1 is a prize, providing 800m of steep ice capped by great mixed climbing. just looking at a photo of the south face will make you realize what you have been missing.
Steeper than the southeast face, the south arête is also a great climb. Often, the upper part of the face will have some unconsolidated sugar snow, but it is still worth the effort. It can be done in a long day from 1 camp.
Climb through via a left-slanting ramp. Above the ramp, climb straight up the 65-75 degree snow slope, this couloirs has 200m of steep snow and ice with a little mixed rock 80-85 degrees, UIAA IV at the top. Above the couloir, climb250m of 55-degree snow, and join the southeast-face route, near the top. It is long day climbing.
Never climb beyond your ability and knowledge.
Piramide de Garcilaso 5885m.
Pyramid’s west side, reflected in Laguna Paron, makes one of the most beautiful photos of the Cordillera Blanca. The southwest face provides a challenging mixed rock-and ice route leading straight to the pointed summit. Reminiscent of Alpamayo’s southwest face, but longer, more difficult and without the crowds.
Cross the bergschrund directly below the summit. Climb the lower slopes of 70 degree snow and ice to a rock band and the start of mixed climbing (a third of the way up the face).
Depending upon conditions. Some parties have climbed directly up, through the rock band, to reach the central couloirs. At times, it may be easier to arc left, and then back right, to get into the central couloirs. Either way, expect a long pitches (60m, 80 degrees, UIAA IV).
Climb the central gully “up to 70-degree snow, rock and ice” directly to the summit mushroom.
The summit cornice can be quite difficult. If possible, pass the cornice on the left, where you will find firmer snow. Otherwise, try going right, onto the south ridge and southeast face, where you will undoubtedly find sugary snow.
Descent, Rappel the route, using mostly V-thread in the ice and rock anchors.
Huandoy Norte 6396m.
As you drive into the Paron Valley, Huandoy Norte towers above on the right side of the valley. Its northwest face angles toward the sky in a clean sweep of snow and ice. A rock band at the top guards access to the summit plateau. Many people try, but few succeed in completing this climb.