Ishinca is agreat climb for those who don’t have much mountaineering experience, or for those looking to get acclimatized before going on to bigger things. It is primarely a snow walk on glacier slopes until the final 100m, which steepens enough that you could fall if you’re not paying attention. The Summit provides great view of Ranrapalca and Huascaran.
Aclimatization in Quebrada Ishinca:
- The place is spectacular, located in one of the most popular quebradas of the cordillera Blanca for accessing and climb peaks of the Ishinca area, such as urus (5495m), Ishinca (5530 m), Tocllaraju (6034 m) and Ranrapalca (6162 m).
First ascent: June 23, 1965, by S. Turner, W. Bassett, J. Hough and C. Satterfield.
Elevation gain: 1,130m from base camp; 700 from the small lake below Laguna Ishinca.
Time: 5 - 6 hours from base camp; 3 - 4 hours from the toe of the glacier to summit.
Equipment: Helmet, Harness, rope, crampons, long ice.
Timing: Ishinca 3 – 4 days. With Urus 5 – 6 days and Tocllaraju 8 – 9 DAYS
URUS ESTE (5495m)
Southeast Slopes to East Ridge ( Normaly Route)
Elevation gain: 1,040m from Ishinca base camp.
Route: E Ridge
Lenght: 3 - 4 days
Time: 5 - 6 hours from base camp to the summit
Equipment: Helmet, Harness, rope, crampons, long ice axe.
Nevado Urus - Ishinca - 4-5 days
Nevado Ishinca - Urus - Tocllaraju - 7-8 days.
Urus is an acclimatization mountain to prepare for the higher peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. Its normally considered a trekking peak more than a climbing one, but weather conditions can make this easy summit far from a sure bet. Crevasses are not a concern as the mountain only has a small snow cap.
The normal route goes bordering the small glacier for a slope of snow not complicated. The interest in this peak is for its location with great views and the height over the 5000 meters (5495 meters is a very good reward). The Quebrada Ishinca is one of the closer to Huaraz and from its base camp you can climb two 5000 meters peak (Ishinca and Urus) and two 6000 meters peaks (Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca ) so you keep travel a minimum. It´s the perfect acclimatization trip.
Southeast slopes to East Ridge (normal route) Urus est. Is one of several Ishinca valley peaks that are perfect for acclimatization. An easy snow climb leads to the 5495 m summit. if you leave early enough; you can be back in base camp for lunch.
provides great views of Ranrapalca, Huantsan, Palcaraju, Tocllaraju and Urus.
TIME: from base camp, 9 to 10 hours summit- base camp.
NEVADO TOCLLARAJU (6,032m).
- Northwest ridge (normal route)
Tocllaraju is one of the most beautiful mountains in the rang. It is a challenging peak, yet not too difficult for a first 6,000m peak. Adventurous yet moderate ice climbing and exposed ridge lead to a perfect summit .this classic two -days mountaineering adventure is not to missed.
Elevation gain: 1632m from valley floor; 1,032 from the high camp.
Grade: D (due to the difficulties of the summit pyramid).
Time: 2 days roundtrip from base camp; 7-8 hours from high camp to summit.
Equipment: gramps, harness, helmet, 1 long and 1 technical ice axe, 3-4 pickets and 2 ropes (60m or longer).
This pyramid-like mountain is a very aesthetic climb. The nose mountain is a classic, but it is not crowded. Its intermediate level (AD) makes this 3-4 day climb very rewarding. This area of the Cordillera is very suited for acclimatisation as there are 4 mountains in reach of the same base camp. Urus (5450 meters) and Ishinca (5530 meters) are both one day climb from BC.
NW Ridge: AD.5 -6h Gain the NW Ridge from the 5300m camp negotiating through a crevasse zone. Follow the ridge until you reach the steep summit tower (bergschrund) at about 5950m. Get to the summit in 3 pitches (45-60 varying conditions: styro-foam snow and water- ice). Snow stakes for abseiling sometimes in situ.
NEVADO RANRAPALCA (6,162m)
Ranrapalca is one of the most breathtaking mountains of Peru´s Cordillera Blanca. It is easily seen from Huaraz, and overwhelming to everybody climbing nearby Ishinca (5.530m), its North Face is a superb climb.
- Northeast face (normal route)
Resembling a giant fortress, Ranrapalca is climbed most easily via the northeast face. Along the route, you will traverse a glacier, negotiate crevasses and ascend with an exciting finish.
Time: 2-3 days roundtrip from base camp to Ranrapalca summit.
Huaraz, at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca, is an open door to the paths and summits of the Cordilleras; it is also an ideal and lively base.
PERU AMAZING ADVENTURES IDEA:
Be sure to take out insurance (repatiation)
Acclimatize by gaining height slowly, you will not gain any time by going too fast
Take time over things so you do not forget the essentials.
Have a good trip and many adventures, the summit and paths are waiting for you.
And last but not least we would like to mention that the success of our trip depends to a large extent on unpredicted events such as weather condition or personal reaction, so an adventurous spirit and good will are essential for the success of the expedition.